Despite my having read it so many times, and known of it through countless conversations, I have made a remarkable personal discovery that much of America, with its kaleidoscope of humanity, is to be found on its highways.
On a trip west, and heading through the Berkshires with
their soft rolling hills, I gave a lift to two young girls. Upon stopping, the
older-looking one opened the door and said, "New York?"
"City
or State?" I countered. She hesitated, looked back at her younger
companion, and a secret sign passed between them.
"Are you going to New York City?" the younger one
asked, standing back on the grass verge.
"No," I replied, "but I can take you part
way, and you can try to get a lift to New York City from there."
Again the hidden signals passed between them. The younger
girl gave a slight nod, and in they climbed.
We sat in silence, while my
attempts at conversation were suspiciously rebuffed. It wasn't until I switched
on the radio and a rock star sang his latest money maker that they came to
life.
I wondered about these two young girls. At first, I put them
at about 16 or 17 years of age, two girls off to see the city. But a closer
look told me that they were probably several years younger. I tried not to
dwell too much on why they were out here on Interstate 90, miles from the
nearest town.
In between their humming of the tune, I pushed in what I
hoped were innocent questions about their travel. Where had they come from?
Where were they going? I managed to make it light enough to add a joke about
running away from home.
Again, the silence and the secret signals. I did not push
further. I managed to elicit from them that they were traveling from Hartford
to "their grandfather's house in Bridgeport." That would be
comparable to traveling from London to Paris via Rio de Janeiro. Again, I
resisted the desire to find a reason for this, and I suppose I though of the
Samaritan, who helped but did not inquire.
The girls were painted in the colors of the age. Deep eye shadow
and varnished finger and toe nails. They wore purples and puce, violets and
green. Their natural hair color could only be guessed at. Underneath it all
were two girls who should have been claiming their right to play baseball with
the boys, instead of being here on this lonely highway. I could only wonder at
why they were on the lam like this and if someone was worrying about them. I
decided that all I would do was to remember their description, and to note
where I had dropped them off.
I finally pointed them in the direction of New York City and
left them. My heart went with them. I saw my own two girls in their faces. God
forbid that they should ever find themselves in such a situation — and God
ensure that someone would help them. Today, I might have second thoughts about
stopping.
Once cleared of Albany, the New York farmland spread out,
and the low clouds that had been with me since Boston opened up and the rain
beat against the windshield.
Two figures huddled in the pelting rain, making a tent of
their two coats. I pulled over, honking to them.
One figure ran up, a young, bearded man about 25. Behind
him, a smaller figure hopped and dragged a foot.
"Hi," the young man said. "Her buckle has
broken on her sandal." But he made made no attempt to run back and assist
the small, round girl who came puffing up.
"My buckle broke," she said in a voice that rose
above the rain.
"I already told him," the man said. She stared at
him, as though he had robbed her of her moment in the limelight.
"Why don't you hop in out of the rain?" I beckoned
them in, she in the middle and he, propping himself against the far door. This
time I did not initiate any conversation. I had a feeling that I would not have
to, and I was right. He called me "Sir," and she called me
"Mister."
"How far ya going, mister?" she asked. I told them
that I would go all the way to Buffalo on the Thruway.
"We're going to Elmira. You going there, mister?"
"Maybe he's not going to Elmira,"the man said,
staring out the window, then turning to me, "Are you?"
I said, "No," but that they were welcome to
accompany me as far as the nearest turnoff point to Elmira.
Both wet and exhausted, he soon feel asleep, but she poked
him awake telling him that he had fallen asleep. He smiled, put his arm around
her, and nodded off again. Soon, she fell asleep, and although this didn't
fulfill my reason for picking them up—I wanted company—it was comforting to
have them there.
They seemed "country people," not used to city
ways or manners; had I been king or farmer, it would have made no difference to
them. In contrast to their light abrasiveness toward each other, they slept as
though all their worlds was wrapped up in each other. [this is a bit awkward,
but wonderful, and I couldn't come up with better]
Miles later, I reached across and nudged his shoulder. He
snapped up his head.
"The next town is your best spot for a lift to
Elmira," I told him.
"Thank you sir," he said, "We really
appreciate this."
Then she awoke and said, "Where are we, mister?"
He told her, "We get off soon."
When I looked for the last time in the rear view mirror I
saw them holding their coats over their heads. It suddenly occurred to me that
they could have been the parents of those two young girls.
Normally these encounters would have been adventure enough
for one trip. But farther on, through the clear gap left by the sweep of the
wiper, another sodden hiker waved his thumb at the passing traffic. As I
stopped, a dark complexioned man looked in the window. He said, "Excuse
me, please, ver' goot. I go to Boofalo. OK?"
I said "OK," and he dripped into the car.
"Ver' goot. I come from Algeria. I go to Boofalo. Ver'
goot."
"Fine," I told him.
"Ver' goot. Ver goot. Excuse me, pliz," he
replied.
He wore heavy corduroy trousers, a thick sweater, and a
fur-hooded parka. It was almost 90 degrees, very humid, and he was not even
perspiring. I asked him if he wanted to take off his parka.
"Excuse me, pliz, ver' goot. I like America. Is
goot," he said.
I had the feeling that if I told him Martians were
kidnapping Chicago, he would have said, "Ver' goot."
Eventually he did take off his parka and sweater. Perhaps he
was wearing his entire wardrobe. His English was about as good as my Algerian.
I tried speaking French. It only made matters worse. Each time I said something
in French, he asked me to tell him what it was in English.
The countryside south of the Adirondacks is rolling and
sliced with tiny valleys, settled with small towns created from the river
traffic which served the mills. We caught each other looking at the green
slopes of the farmed fields, and I said, "Very pretty."
"Ver' goot," he said, "is nice. America is
nice. Many trees, is ver' goot to have many trees. What is 'pretty'?"
"Pretty is beautiful," I said. "Only
smaller." I pinched my index finger and thumb to indicate size.
I dropped him off
amid the industrial landscape of "Boofalo." We exchanged
gifts. I swapped a cap of mine he had admired that said "Lake Placid,
Winter Olympics, 1980" for a drink of orange juice.
"Thank you," he said, his charcoal eyes glowing.
We shook hands and parted as we might have done had we met in the desert.
I felt better for having met them all. It would have been
easy to simply pass them by. On a subway train or an elevator, I might not have
given them a second thought. But special circumstances breed special
perceptions. Ancient travelers often joined caravans for mutual protection;
somehow, I felt part of a very historic tradition.
Although each of my hitchhikers was entirely different in
background, character and outlook, they all had a wanderlust that impelled them
to travel the highway. None of them showed any anxiety about arrival at their
destination. On the contrary, I had the feeling that it was the traveling
itself that was important.
As a personal experience, I found I had to readjust. Much of
my life has centered around "home and hearth"— a sense of permanence
that belonged inside four walls. I found myself feeling that perhaps the
nomadic instinct is as much a part of human feeling for the world, as is
putting down roots.
© Roy H.
Barnacle 2014